The absolute frenzy that was the first week was very much like the first stage of a relationship: pure excitement and infatuation for Japan’s most appealing traits. However, during the second week, we have gotten to dig deeper into Japan’s personality. As such, some of the initial excitement for being in a new environment has dissipated and been replaced by a sense of comfort. With this comfort, we have been able to explore what Japan has to offer other than busy streets, tall buildings, and flashing lights. And as is true for any relationship, flaws come to the surface. Week 2 is a story of cultural exploration and finding these flaws.
Our first point of cultural exploration for the week came at the Mori Art Museum. This experience was unique due to how contrasting the two exhibits were. The “Science Behind Pixar” exhibit focused on the process and technologies that produce some of our favorite animated films. Then, there was the Chiharu Shiota exhibit, which was a pure expression of art and humanity. Caves of red yarn, floating luggage, a burnt piano trapped in a web of black string, and a grotesque film of Chiharu in a mud bath all worked to draw genuine emotions out of its audience. It was shocking to see these two wholly different expressions of culture only be separated by a short escalator ride.
Many of us also went to watch a kabuki play on the weekend. Kabuki is a classical form of Japanese theatre defined by ornate makeup and exaggerated movements and speech. The play we watched told a story of a samurai mired in an imperial conflict and a complicated relationship with a geisha. This was a highly Japanese form of expression through both medium and material. However, the audience was quite diverse. It ranged from English-speaking American tourists to die-hard Japanese fans who would yell out their favorite characters’ names in the middle of the show. After the play, we headed to the Shitamachi Tanabata Matsuri. The festival was complete with a traditional shamisen and awa odori performance, dozens of food and toy vendors, and an elementary school marching band. Again, many of the vendors and attendees were from all over world: China, France, America, Korea, all celebrating a Japanese festival. The diversity behind these cultural experiences is indicative of Japan’s multiethnic reality that was described in Stephen Murphy-Shigematsu’s “Multiethnic Lies and Monoethnic Myths.” Japan is much more diverse than many of its people would like to admit, and these “monoethnic myths” contribute to our first flaw.
As people in Japan try to cling onto a false homogeneous identity, many people with diverse backgrounds are left in an odd limbo. This was most evident in the Hafu documentary that we watched in class. Some mixed-race people who were raised in Japan are still looked upon as outsiders. This was most evident with David who was born to a Ghanaian mother and a Japanese father. He has lived in Japan since the age of six. Despite this, he is still seen as an outsider due to his physical experience. People are shocked when he speaks fluent Japanese, and he has to explain his story every time he meets someone for the first time, almost to justify his right to live in Japan.
As we saw at the talk at Sophia University, not only does this isolationist mentality manifest itself in everyday interactions, it is also evident in Japan’s treatment of asylum seekers. Their acceptance rate for refugees is 0.2%, which is staggeringly low. We heard from a Ugandan asylum seeker that has been awaiting acceptance for ten years now, and for those ten years, he has not been allowed to get a job. It’s truly an odd dichotomy to see diverse people and cultures intermingling so harmoniously in our explorations against a backdrop of isolationism employed by the Japanese government.
The second flaw became apparent at our visit to the Yushukan Museum. Much of the narrative surrounding Japan’s exploits leading up to and during WWII was altered to deflect responsibility and make it seem like Japan was forced into their actions. The museum also never mentioned any of the atrocities committed against Korean and Chinese people during the war. This was of particular note to me, as I went to a history museum a couple years back while I was in Korea. They had an exhibit that was dedicated to portraying the way Japan treated Koreans during WWII. Gruesome imagery and audio recordings of agonizing screams contributed to a palpable heaviness and anger that permeated throughout the room. I was with my dad that day, and he often conveys his frustrations about Japan not apologizing for its wartime crimes against Korea. I do wonder what his reaction would be to the Yushukan Museum's portrayal of WWII.
As with any healthy relationship, bumps in the road are met with an attempt at understanding. As discussed in class, these flaws have their roots in complex historical and political realities. Although troubling, they act as a way for us to understand Japan and its national identity more and more. This week has taught me to not just be amazed at expressions of culture or angered by detrimentally conservative policies, but to come from a place of understanding and ask why? What aspects of Japan’s history, politics, and identity contribute to these present-day phenomena? As we move into the second half of the program, Japan and I will continue to cultivate this relationship.
Week 2 Gallery
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